Although buckles are thought to have been invented by the ancient Romans, it would not be until the advent of mass-produced, machine-made clothing in the twentieth century that they became widespread. Buckles like this nineteenth-century sterling silver and copper example was hand-made by the jewelers Bailey, Banks & Biddle for a well-to-do client. Buckles were often gifts, and they symbolize strength, fidelity, and eternal love. The textured, hand-hammered surface makes it an elegant accessory.
Bailey, Banks & Biddle began as Bailey & Kitchen in 1832, when Joseph Trowbridge Bailey and Andrew B. Kitchen opened a jewelry and silversmithing shop at 136 Chestnut Street in Philadelphia. The firm became Bailey, Banks & Biddle in 1878 when Joseph Bailey II partnered with George Banks and Samuel Biddle. By the late nineteenth century, the company was thriving, with a retail jewelry business and a prominent insignia department that designed medals and awards for the U.S. government and military academies. Notably, it redesigned the Great Seal in 1904, produced the Medal of Honor, and introduced the first Pilot Wings in 1917. Known for exquisite craftsmanship and fine gems, black opals, pale watery aquamarines and rich vibrant rubies, the firm created jewels ranging from Edwardian tiaras to art deco and retro designs.
