Woodmere is proud to offer the following database of the works & history of Mary McFadden, artist and fashion designer. Scroll down to explore her wearable art, including Dresses, Coats, Sets, and more. Find a searchable database of the designer’s collections, and explore the Lending Library. A narrative of Mary McFadden’s life is provided for further research.

About Mary McFadden

Mary McFadden was an American fashion designer renowned for her historically inspired pleated gowns and patented Marii fabric. Founder of Mary McFadden Inc. (1976–2002), the company was noted for the McFadden-designed pleated dresses, which draped "like liquid gold" down a woman's body similar to those on the caryatids at the Acropolis and the first female president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she drew on global art and travel for her designs, earning accolades like the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award. Her work is in museum collections, and she authored Mary McFadden: A Lifetime of Design, Collecting, and Adventure. McFadden also licensed her name to many products such as eyewear, footwear, home furnishings, and more.

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Read “My Story” by Mary McFadden

              Mary McFadden in Southampton, New York, 1955.

philadelphia and the mcfaddens

Philadelphia was deeply woven into the McFaddens’ artistic and intellectual inheritance, connecting the family not only to the city’s extraordinary traditions of collecting and patronage but also to the study of the ancient world. John H. McFadden, 1850–1921, whose portrait is on view at Smith Hall, bequeathed his collection to the city of Philadelphia with the caveat that a suitable building be constructed to house it within seven years of his death, thereby providing further impetus to ensure that the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s new neoclassical home would open to the public, albeit unfinished, by 1928. Through Mary’s paternal uncle, the archaeologist George H. McFadden III, who worked with the University of Pennsylvania Museum at the ancient site of Kourion in Cyprus, Mary and her siblings were introduced to a world in which art, history, myth, and discovery were inseparable. Philadelphia itself, its museums, collections, universities, and long tradition of looking to the ancient Mediterranean and other civilizations, gave that inheritance a particular richness. For Mary, the ancient world would become a lifelong source of inspiration. She came to see art not as something confined to its own time, but as a continuous conversation across centuries and cultures. The city’s scholarly curiosity and the McFadden family’s deep engagement with art helped nurture the expansive vision that would ultimately define her own work.

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The Lending Library at Woodmere

Discover the imaginative and statuesque designs of Mary McFadden on a personal level at Woodmere’s Lending Library. Opening to Woodmere Members later this year, this will provide a unique opportunity for vintage-lovers to peruse and borrow garments from Mary McFadden’s fashion line for special events.

Member Lending Library Details
Member Tour: The Mary McFadden Lending Library
Tour
Maguire Hall

Member Tour: The Mary McFadden Lending Library

1 - 2 pm Sundays; 11 am - 12 pm Wednesdays
|
Exclusive, free to Members
Join us for an intimate, behind-the-scenes look at the couture fashion of Mary McFadden (1938–2024), the designer who blurred the line between fashion and art. Led by Ananda Voecks, you'll step behind the Jewelry Vault into the newly built undercroft that houses the Mary McFadden Lending Library. See her designs up close, hear the stories behind them, and learn how ancient cultures and a lifetime of travel shaped her signature Marii pleating and richly hand-painted textiles. The tour ends with a look at how the Lending Library will work: an exclusive membership perk that lets members borrow an authentic McFadden original for their own special occasion.
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Explore the categories of garments made by Mary McFadden.

Object Type
Style
Size
Color
Collection
Material
Neckline
Sleeve
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Dresses
Couture
16
Black
Satin
Black heat set poly satin plissé gold embroidered cord, silver and black bead and crystal butterfly and flower embroidered velvet scalloped half sleeve bateau neck side zip lettuce hem maxi dress
Boat
Elbow
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
Black
Satin
Black heat set poly satin plissé zip cuff long puff sleeve scoop neck back zip, silver and gold crystal, cording a sequin embroidered belt gathered waist sequin mini dress
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
8
White
Gold
Satin
Ivory heat set poly satin plissé with gold and champagne beige floral cording, white sequin and crystal embroidered half sleeve scalloped boat neck back zip mitered ruffled satin ribbon waist lettuce hem midi dress
Boat
Short
Front Image
Dresses
10
White
Satin
Ivory heat set poly satin plissé left side tie waist high low hem maxi dress
Front Image
Dresses
Blue
Poly
Sky blue with indigo, purple and green floral printed poly georgette sleeveless scoop neck back zip layered midi shift dress bias cut ruffle hem
Scoop
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
10
Black
Linen
Rayon
Black linen rayon band sleeveless ruffle scoop neck back zip darted waist ruffle hem midi shift dress
Scoop
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
10
Yellow
Linen
Rayon
Lemon yellow linen rayon band sleeveless ruffle V-neck back zip darted waist ruffle hem midi shift dress
V Neck
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Purple
Linen
Rayon
Lavender purple linen rayon band sleeveless ruffle V-neck back zip darted waist ruffle hem midi shift dress
Front Image
Dresses
14
Red
Brown
Green
Poly
Red, beige brown and green geometric stripe and ikat printed viscose poly blend braided cord trim cuff long raglan sleeve gathered band collar zip front on seam pocket A-line maxi dress
Collared
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
6
Black
White
Satin
Black and white stripe heat set poly satin plissé with black bead embroidered stripe strapless straight across neck side zip lettuce hem column midi dress
Strapless
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
6
Blue
Gold
Saks Fifth Ave
Satin
Royal blue heat set poly satin plissé with multi color sequin and bead fan embroidered floral lace gold cord cuff three-quarter sleeve bateau neck back zip gold wrapped cording lettuce hem midi dress
Boat
Three-Quarter
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Black
Satin
Black heat set poly satin plissé zip cuff long sleeve bateau neck back zip gold cording, sequin, amber and silver crystal embroidered waist and center feel split hem midi dress
Portrait
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
14
Black
Saks Fifth Ave
Satin
Black heat set poly satin plissé zip cuff long sleeve puff shoulder V-neck sequin and multi shape paillette embroidered waist left side zip layered organza A-line full length gown
V Neck
Long
Front Image
Dresses
8
White
Gold
Poly
Silk
Organza
Ivory, iridescent pearl sequin, gold and champagne silk poly, iridescent pearl sequin, gold and champagne beige floral and beaded stripe embroidered silk organza scalloped short sleeve puff shoulder scalloped scoop neck heat set poly satin plissé lettuce hem maxi dress
Portrait
Elbow
Front Image
Skirts
2
White
Knit
Silk
Organza
Ivory cotton jersey knit elastic waist scalloped drop waist layered silk organza tiered pick up maxi skirt with lace trim slip
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Red
Green
Purple
Bergdorf Goodman
Satin
Cranberry red heat set poly satin plissé long sleeve puff shoulder V-neck gold, shades of green and purple sequin embroidered waist left side zip rose pattern floral damask gathered waist full length gown
V Neck
Long
Front Image
Coats
Brown
Black
Velvet
Cotton
Dark hickory brown cotton velveteen black covered button cuff long sleeve band collar half button front double welt pocket full length A-line overcoat with aubergine and brown braided spiral and paisley embroidered cording trim
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
6
Red
Satin
Crimson red heat set poly satin plissé long puff sleeve V-neck back zip bias cut bodice asymmetrical dropped waist lettuce hem midi dress
V Neck
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
Purple
Saks Fifth Ave
Satin
Aubergine purple heat set poly satin plissé gold floral brocade zip cuff long sleeve raw edge pleated shoulder round neck back zip criss cross draped front dropped waist lettuce hem midi dress
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
8
Green
Saks Fifth Ave
Satin
Dark mint green heat set poly satin plissé zip cuff long ruched sleeve gathered shoulder scoop cowl neck pull through tie draped waist lettuce hem midi dress
Cowl
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
White
Gold
Silver
Satin
Ivory heat set poly satin plissé gold embroidered cord and silver crystal trim half sleeve V-neck back zip geometric sequin and bead embroidered waist A-line full length gown
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Red
Gold
Silk
Velvet
Crimson red silk blend velvet asymmetrical gold sequin embroidered leaf strap boned bodice left side zip wrap around pink, blue and green appliqué sequin stripe gown, side slit
One-shoulder
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
Blue
Satin
Dark royal blue heat set poly satin plissé two tiered silk organza ruffle cuff long puff sleeve scoop neck back zip elastic dropped waist three tiered ruffle full length gown with two silver crystal and sequin tassel appliqué at shoulder
Front Image
Sets
White
Silk
Crepe
Ivory with multicolor floral bouquet printed silk crepe ensemble with gathered elastic cuff long dolman sleeve round neck gathered yoke midi dress and back zip straight leg pants
Front Image
Dresses
Blue
Nieman Marcus
Satin
Arctic blue heat set poly satin plissé raw edge three ruffle cuff long sleeve scoop neck back zip midi column dress with ivory and blue three tiered ruffle hem
Front Image
Sets
Blue
Satin
Sky blue heat set poly satin plissé skirt suit with three-quarter sleeve round neck hook front longing fitted jacket and concealed waist side zip midi tulip skirt
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
Black
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Black horizontally quilted silk satin long sleeve round neck organza interlaced medallion reverse appliqué covered button front cropped jacket with corded trim
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
Black
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Black horizontally quilted silk satin three-quarter sleeve round neck covered button and loop front fit-and-flare mid calf length jacket with corded trim
Front Image
Skirts
Black
Mary McFadden Collection
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Black horizontally quilted silk satin side zip double pleat A-line knee length split hem skirt
Front Image
Jackets
White
Blue
Mary McFadden Collection
Poly
White and dark navy blue stretch poly blend ribbed knit three-quarter sleeve pieced shoulder no collar darted bust open mitered front cardigan style sweater
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
Black
Silver
Gold
Silk
Organza
Black silk organza with grey resist dyed grid, silver and gold hand painted square pattern and layered nylon mesh half sleeve round neck open front longline jacket
Three-Quarter
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
Blue
Black
Gold
Silk
Shades of indigo blue, black and grey geometric pattern tapestry woven silk blend straight cuff long sleeve built shoulder round neck princess seam zip front jacket with gold and multicolor embroidered flower, sequin and glass bead cord snap waist belt
Long
Front Image
Sets
Couture
Orange
Silver
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Peach orange with silver and grey printed bouquet horizontally quilted silk satin skirt suit with long sleeve round neck concealed zip front jacket and side zip double pleat A-line split hem knee length skirt
Front Image
Sets
Couture
Black
Gold
Silk
Organza
Mesh
Black silk organza and mesh lace with gold and black multi shape floral pattern bead embroidered ensemble with long sleeve round neck hook front fit-and-flare jacket and side zip A-line knee length skirt
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
Blue
Green
Purple
Silver
Poly
Shades of blue, green, purple and silver hand painted stylized floral pattern horizontally quilted poly blend long sleeve round neck open front relaxed fit blazer jacket
Long
Front Image
Pants
White
Silk
Linen
Ivory linen with silk grosgrain wide waistband side zip stitched, center box and knife pleated wide leg pants
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
Green
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Sea glass green horizontally quilted silk satin with clear crystal bead and scalloped fringe trim long sleeve round and layered organza V-neck hook front fit-and-flare hip length jacket
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Black
Brown
Velvet
Black silk velvet with brown tracery printed trim straight cuff long sleeve round neck single hook and half zip front mid calf length jacket
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
6
Black
Blue
Silver
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Black horizontally quilted silk satin with shades of blue, grey and silver bead and sequin embroidered macramé netting half sleeve boat neck back zip fit-and-flare cocktail dress
Boat
Elbow
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
White
Brown
Gold
Lace
Cotton
Quilted
Ivory and terracotta brown lace and banded stripe batik pattern horizontally quilted cotton with gold embroidered spiral cording long sleeve round neck princess seam hook front blazer jacket
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Red
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Cranberry red horizontally quilted silk satin long sleeve round neck hook front fitted jacket with scalloped gold, silver and orange bead, sequin and amber teardrop crystal embroidered trim
Long
Front Image
Jackets
White
Gold
Silk
Satin
Quilted
White horizontally quilted silk satin three-quarter sleeve round neck hook front longline jacket with white and gold bugle bead, pearl and sequin banding, gold and black scalloped embroidery trim
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
White
Black
Silk
Satin
Quilted
White horizontally quilted silk satin long sleeve round neck and V-neck hook front longline jacket with black scalloped sequin, bead and floral lace trim
Long
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
2
Pink
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Sherbet pink poly Charmeuse Marii pleat piping waistband side zip full length skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
4
Blue
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Sky blue poly Charmeuse Marii pleat side zip column skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
6
Blue
Green
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Teal green poly Charmeuse Marii pleat piping waistband side zip closure full length skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
12
Blue
Green
Woven
Cotton
Light turquoise cotton plain weave overlap pleat top full length wrap skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
2
Orange
Woven
Cotton
Shades of rust & multicolor floral interlock border print cotton plain weave full length wrap skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
2
Yellow
Woven
Cornsilk yellow horizontal stripe weave dart front side zip full length skirt with side split seam gold edge detail
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
2
Pink
Rayon
Woven
Flamingo pink rayon weave gathered waist edge large bauble hem skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
2
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Cream poly Charmeuse Marii pleat banded waist floor-length evening column skirt
Front Image
Pants
2
Purple
Wool
Plum tropical wool plain weave high waisted dart front back zip wide leg pants
Front Image
Pants
2
Black
Silk
Organza
Black silk organza high waisted dart front back zip wide leg pants
Front Image
Pants
2
White
Silk
Faille
Lily white silk faille high waisted dart front side zip wide leg trousers
Front Image
Pants
Couture
2
Brown
Silk
Crepe
Shades of brown & multicolor paint swatch sheer silk crepe high waisted flat front back zip closure wide leg pants
Front Image
Pants
2
Black
Nylon
Chiffon
Black nylon chiffon rope drawstring waist wide leg pants
Front Image
Jackets
Silk
Organza
Shades of pastel & silver watercolor design silk organza single hook-and-eye top closure silver piping edge thin coat
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Blue
Orange
Yellow
Black
Silk
Steel blue with shades of orange, yellow and black floral batik gold horizontally quilted silk satin Long sleeve round neck half zip front fit-and-flare full length jacket with gold corded trim
Long
Front Image
Jackets
White
Silk
Ivory silk horizontal quilt stitch collarless padded shoulder zip front coat
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Blue
Gold
Silk
Sky blue & multicolor floral Art Nouveau motif silk quilt stitch collarless padded shoulder side seam pocket clutch coat with gold piping trim and orange/pink cuff design
Long
Front Image
Coats
Purple
Silver
Silk
Fur
Plum silk quilt stitch top covered button closure A-line coat with silver/grey tiered rabbit fur yoke, shoulders, and sleeves
Long
Front Image
Blouses
White
Gold
Silk
Organza
Snow white silk blend organza bracelet sleeve open collar/lapel wrap top with large turned gold button French cuffs and wide self sash
Front Image
Blouses
Gold
Black
Nylon
Chiffon
Lace
Black nylon chiffon slight puff sleeve barrel cuff jewel neck crop top with gold lace/sequin bodice & cuff applique
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
10
Gold
Mesh
Lace
Gold lurex mesh/diagonal hanging circle fringe long sleeve boat neck contrast sheer paisley lace tiered skirt ankle length dress
Boat
Long
Front Image
Pants
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Linen
Ivory plain weave linen long sleeve boatneck wide leg pantsuit with gold bullion trim along left leg and waist
Portrait
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Gold
Silver
Jacquard
Silver & taupe metallic thread jacquard bell cuff sleeve overlap asymmetric lapel zip/snap front jacket with front gold curlicue accent
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Gold
Blue
Silk
Chiffon
Light gold, blue, & multicolor watercolor print silk chiffon long tie spaghetti strap gathered neck loose-cut column dress
Square
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Black
Crepe
Black crepe back zip long sleeve jewel neck tea-length with pleated panel bodice and skirt
Jewel
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Frost white poly Charmeuse Marii pleat long sleeve boatneck drop waist pearl & sequin-encrusted lace tiered skirt wedding gown
Boat
Long
Front Image
Dresses
2
White
Organza
Antique cream Chantilly lace/frost white silk organza long tiered puff Juliet sleeve rectangular neck gathered skirt wedding gown
Square
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Blue
Purple
Silk
Aqua blue, purple & multicolor crocus print silk quilt stitch fold under lapel crop jacket with gold detailing
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Powder white poly Charmeuse Marii pleat bird & flower embellished half-sleeve boatneck column gown with left skirt slit
Boat
Elbow
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Gold
Orange
Mesh
Tulle
Orange & gold moiré patterned mesh three-quarter sleeve ruffle cuff boat neck lace stomacher panel ruffle waist Victorian-style gown with tiered skirt seam accents tulle lining
Boat
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Green
Venice 16th Century Collection 1990
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Light sage green poly Charmeuse Marii pleat strapless slight V-neckline column gown with pink, light blue, & yellow crystal diamond-pattern embellished bodice
Strapless
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Coptic Weavers
Charmeuse
Ivory charmeuse long sleeve boat neck empire waist slight train bias-cut gown with black beaded scroll embellished bodice
Jewel
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
White
Coptic Weavers
Satin
Pearl white satin long sleeve round neck black beaded scroll embellishment around neck A-line gown zippered cuff
Jewel
Long
Front Image
Dresses
2
Yellow
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Marii pleat yellow A-line full-length dress
V Neck
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Cream poly Charmeuse Marii pleat long sleeve scoop neck column gown with Byzantine-inspired beading under bust, along neck, and cuffs zippered cuff
Scoop
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Black
Rayon
Buttermilk & black bias blocked rayon faille long sleeve jeweled lace boat neck gown with zippered black beaded lace cuff accents
Boat
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Frost white poly Charmeuse Marii pleat antique white organza tiered half-sleeve boatneck scoop back column gown tiered sleeve
Boat
Elbow
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Frost white poly Charmeuse Marii pleat/floral & vine burnout jacquard long blouson beaded cuff sleeve boatneck heavily embellished drape bodice column gown button cuff
Boat
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Purple
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Violet poly Charmeuse Marii pleat short sleeve jewel neck column gown with gold & pearl embellished sleeves, shoulders, & waist
Jewel
Short
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Orange
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Light peach poly Charmeuse Marii pleat portrait neckline cap sleeve multicolor embellished bodice column gown with two diamond cutouts at front
Portrait
Cap
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Blue
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Sea blue poly Charmeuse Marii pleat embellished short sleeve scoop neck embroidered bodice column gown
Scoop
Short
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Orange
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Peach poly Charmeuse Marii pleat short sleeve jewel neck column gown with lime & silver scrollwork beading at chest
Jewel
Short
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Blue
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Aegean blue poly Marii pleat strapless sequin & crystal embellished scallop edge bodice column gown
Strapless
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Blue
Green
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Turquoise poly Marii pleat round halter neck crystal & pearl embellished neckline column gown
Halter
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Black
Gold
Chiffon
Black & metallic gold leaf design fils coupe chiffon/nude underlay strapless pearl & crystal embellished waist column gown
Strapless
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Lily white poly Charmeuse Marii pleat long sleeve open shoulder boat neck column gown with jet beading around neck and shoulders
Boat
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Yellow
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Lemon yellow poly Charmeuse Marii pleat short sleeve boatneck sheath gown with embellished sleeves and neckline
Boat
Short
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Black
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black poly Charmeuse Marii pleat long sleeve boat neck gown with white varying size pearl side gradient bodice accent zippered cuff
Boat
Long
Front Image
Dresses
2
Orange
Green
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Marii pleat Coral & lime poly Charmeuse Marii pleat sleeveless V-neck woven diagonal seam bodice column gown checkered top, coral and lime full-length dress
V Neck
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
8
White
Blue
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Alabaster poly Charmeuse Marii pleat long sleeve jewel neck tiered gown with stone blue asymmetric waist, sleeve, and skirt underlay tier
Jewel
Long
Front Image