Woodmere is proud to offer the following database of the works & history of Mary McFadden, artist and fashion designer. Scroll down to explore her wearable art, including Dresses, Coats, Sets, and more. Find a searchable database of the designer’s collections, and explore the Lending Library. A narrative of Mary McFadden’s life is provided for further research.

About Mary McFadden

Mary McFadden was an American fashion designer renowned for her historically inspired pleated gowns and patented Marii fabric. Founder of Mary McFadden Inc. (1976–2002), the company was noted for the McFadden-designed pleated dresses, which draped "like liquid gold" down a woman's body similar to those on the caryatids at the Acropolis and the first female president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she drew on global art and travel for her designs, earning accolades like the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award. Her work is in museum collections, and she authored Mary McFadden: A Lifetime of Design, Collecting, and Adventure. McFadden also licensed her name to many products such as eyewear, footwear, home furnishings, and more.

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Read “My Story” by Mary McFadden

              Mary McFadden in Southampton, New York, 1955.

philadelphia and the mcfaddens

Philadelphia was deeply woven into the McFaddens’ artistic and intellectual inheritance, connecting the family not only to the city’s extraordinary traditions of collecting and patronage but also to the study of the ancient world. John H. McFadden, 1850–1921, whose portrait is on view at Smith Hall, bequeathed his collection to the city of Philadelphia with the caveat that a suitable building be constructed to house it within seven years of his death, thereby providing further impetus to ensure that the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s new neoclassical home would open to the public, albeit unfinished, by 1928. Through Mary’s paternal uncle, the archaeologist George H. McFadden III, who worked with the University of Pennsylvania Museum at the ancient site of Kourion in Cyprus, Mary and her siblings were introduced to a world in which art, history, myth, and discovery were inseparable. Philadelphia itself, its museums, collections, universities, and long tradition of looking to the ancient Mediterranean and other civilizations, gave that inheritance a particular richness. For Mary, the ancient world would become a lifelong source of inspiration. She came to see art not as something confined to its own time, but as a continuous conversation across centuries and cultures. The city’s scholarly curiosity and the McFadden family’s deep engagement with art helped nurture the expansive vision that would ultimately define her own work.

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The Lending Library at Woodmere

Discover the imaginative and statuesque designs of Mary McFadden on a personal level at Woodmere’s Lending Library. Opening to Woodmere Members later this year, this will provide a unique opportunity for vintage-lovers to peruse and borrow garments from Mary McFadden’s fashion line for special events.

Member Lending Library Details
Member Tour: The Mary McFadden Lending Library
Tour
Maguire Hall

Member Tour: The Mary McFadden Lending Library

1 - 2 pm Sundays; 11 am - 12 pm Wednesdays
|
Exclusive, free to Members
Join us for an intimate, behind-the-scenes look at the couture fashion of Mary McFadden (1938–2024), the designer who blurred the line between fashion and art. Led by Ananda Voecks, you'll step behind the Jewelry Vault into the newly built undercroft that houses the Mary McFadden Lending Library. See her designs up close, hear the stories behind them, and learn how ancient cultures and a lifetime of travel shaped her signature Marii pleating and richly hand-painted textiles. The tour ends with a look at how the Lending Library will work: an exclusive membership perk that lets members borrow an authentic McFadden original for their own special occasion.
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Explore the categories of garments made by Mary McFadden.

Object Type
Style
Size
Color
Collection
Material
Neckline
Sleeve
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Sets
Blouses
Pants
Red
Silk
Set: Cranberry silk short sleeve Tibetan style blouse crossover panel with bamboo toggles, Cranberry silk pant with thin cream drawstring cord
Cap
Front Image
Sets
Blouses
Pants
Gold
Silk
Set: Gold silk long sleeve Tibetan style blouse crossover panel with bamboo toggles, Gold silk pant with cream drawstring
Long
Front Image
Sets
Blouses
Skirts
Green
Silk
Set: Celadon silk long sleeve Tibetan style long sleeve blouse crossover panel with bamboo toggles, Celadon silk long skirt with high center slit and crossover front closure
Long
Front Image
Sets
Jackets
Couture
Blue
Silk
Quilted
Navy blue quilted silk long sleeve jacket with sequin and bead embroidery matching fabric-covered buttons run along the edge of the embroidered placket. Navy blue quilted silk skirt
Long
Front Image
Sets
Jackets
Skirts
Brown
Red
Poly
Beige brown and brick red floral, paisley and dotted stripe printed gold diamond quilted poly blend ensemble with long sleeve round neck gold covered button front cropped jacket and pleated hook side two tiered side slit maxi skirt
Long
Front Image
Sets
Jackets
Skirts
Black
Silk
Crepe
Set: Black silk crepe with white satin bound trim skirt suit with split cuff long sleeve round concealed snap and single frogging split hem jacket. Black silk crepe with white satin bound trim skirt
Long
Front Image
Sets
Jackets
Skirts
Couture
8
Black
Rayon
Velvet
Set: Black rayon velvet with appliqué gold leather, embroidered metalized scalloped fringe stripe, knotted fringe and lattice banding trim long sleeve V-neck hook front jacket. Black rayon velvet side zip pencil skirt 23" side slit.
Long
Front Image
Dresses
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Ivory marii pleated scoop neck column sihouette dress with vertical band of turquoise and gold beaded embroidery, colbalt and ruby rhinestones and sequins runs directly down the center front of the gown from the neckline to the floor length hem. Vertical red passementerie trim with metallic threads also borders the outer sides of the skirt panels.
Front Image
Skirts
White
Taffeta
Ivory taffeta gathered waist with ballon hem green and silver sequin leave applique
Front Image
Pants
Yellow
Marigold with gold and silver metallic leaf design harem style pant
Front Image
Blouses
Green
Silk
Melon China silk sleeveless blouse
Sleeveless
Front Image
Blouses
Yellow
Silk
Yellow silk sleeveless blouse with blue lace side seams
Front Image
Blouses
Green
Silk
Celadon silk sleeveless blouse
Front Image
Tunics
Red
Maroon lined in white long sleeve Tibetan style blouse crossover front panel with bamboo toggles
Long
Front Image
Blouses
Brown
Chiffon
Brown heavy chiffonv-neck long sleeve cap collar blouse with ties at wrist
V Neck
Long
Front Image
Pants
Black
Silk
Black silk pant
Front Image
Pants
Red
Silk
Raspberry silk pant with pink draw string
Front Image
Skirts
Green
Green gathered skirt with 1/2" pleat at waist to hip`
Front Image
Jackets
Red
Silk
Quilted
Maroon quilted jacket mandarin style collar with floral design and border green pink brown
Long
Front Image
Pants
Orange
Silk
Orange silk pant with cream draw string at waist
Front Image
Skirts
Red
Silk
Raspberry silk A-line skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Orange
Linen
Orange linen gathered skirt with 1" pleats at waist to above hip
Front Image
Skirts
Green
Linen
Mint linen skirt with pleated detail near bottom hem
Front Image
Jackets
Blue
White
Silk
Ivory quilted silk hand painted blue vertical scallop motif jacket with hidden front clasps
Long
Front Image
Pants
Yellow
Silk
Canary yellow raw silk pant with black draw string at waist
Front Image
Tunics
White
Silk
Tussah ivory silk v-neck long sleeve tunic
Long
Front Image
Pants
White
Knit
Wide leg ivory pant with front crossover closure
Front Image
Blouses
Green
Silk
Evergreen China silk sleeveless blouse
Sleeveless
Front Image
Tunics
Brown
Silk
Tussah beige silk Tibetan style long sleeve blouse crossover panel with bamboo toggles
Long
Front Image
Blouses
White
Silk
Taupe silk long sleeve blouse with jewel neckline with gathered shoulder detail with a vertical piped seam ties at wrist
Long
Front Image
Skirts
Blue
Green
White
Silk
Hand painted silk pale blue and green vertical strip pattern layered over a white underskirt with matching waistband
Front Image
Dresses
Silver
Crepe
Charcoal grey wool crepe sleeveless sheath dress knee length hem
Front Image
Dresses
Black
Cotton
Black sleeveless cotton sheath dress with diamon solitaire jacquard Matelasse weave
Front Image
Dresses
Black
Linen
Black linen sleeveless sheath dress featuring vertical soutache embroidered panels on nude mesh at either side of the hip hem
Sleeveless
Front Image
Tunics
Brown
Silk
Tussah beige silk Tibetan style long sleeve blouse crossover panel with bamboo toggles
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
Black
Gold
Chiffon
Black & metallic gold leaf design fils coupe chiffon/nude underlay strapless pearl & crystal embellished waist column gown
Front Image
Dresses
Black
Silk
Black silk square neck long sleeve tunic dress hem hits at knees
Square
Long
Front Image
Tunics
Brown
Silk
Tussah beige silk Tibetan style long sleeve blouse front crossover panel with bamboo toggles
Front Image
Tunics
Black
Silk
Black China silk long tunic. Hits at knees long sleeve
Front Image
Sets
Brown
Silk
Brown raw silk v-neck long sleeve tunic. Matching brown skirt with pleated hips.
Long
Front Image
Blouses
Blue
Silk
Royal blue China silk sleeveless blouse
Front Image
Blouses
Yellow
Silk
Yellow China silk sleeveless blouse
Front Image
Coats
Purple
Fur
Wool
Multicolored sweater coat with purple fur collar with single front clasp. Blue, beige, raspberry wine vertical color-blocked panels with satin lining
Front Image
Jackets
Orange
Red
Brown
Silk
Quilted
Orange red quilted silk jacket with brown beige large floral motif black knotted buttons
Front Image
Jackets
Black
Silk
Quilted
Black quilted silk jacket with blue and yellow sunflower motif knotted toggle ties
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
Black
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black marii pleated gown with large gold crystal rhinstones pearls along neckline and straps
Square
Front Image
Sets
Black
Blue
Silver
Silk
Grey black blue textured silk jacket with silver buttons and matching pant
Front Image
Dresses
Blue
White
Gold
Silk
Pale blue matelassé fabric sleeveless dress with raised white and gold metallic beadwork and embroidery pinwheel starfish pattern
Scoop
Front Image
Dresses
Black
Silk
Quilted
Black quilted silk sleeveless sheath dress
Boat
Front Image
Dresses
Black
Gold
Velvet
Black with metallic gold strapless velvet-like fabric dress with gold piping along bust and waist
Strapless
Front Image
Dresses
Black
White
Mesh
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black embroidered bodice with white shapes overlaid with black mesh sheer beaded sequin floral motif deep v-cut back and marii pleated full length skirt
Front Image
Dresses
Red
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Raspberry marii pleated cocktail dress square neck multicolored beaded and metallic cord geometric embellished neckline and shoulder piped v-shaped waistline
Square
Long
Front Image
Skirts
White
Silk
Tussah silk ivory A-line skirt V-shaped yoke
Front Image
Tunics
Orange
Silk
Pumpkin orange silk jewel neck tunic with high hip panels long back and front panels
Jewel
Front Image
Skirts
White
Silk
Tussah silk ivory beige skirt with side pleat
Front Image
Skirts
Brown
Silk
Tussah silk ivory beige A-line skirt with piped waistband
Front Image
Jackets
Brown
Silk
Tussah silk beige rolled collar jacket top clasp open front rolled sleeve pleated back
Long
Front Image
Skirts
Brown
Black
Silk
Tussah silk beige skirt with black grosgrain ribbon 2" waistband
Front Image
Jackets
Brown
Black
Silk
Tussah silk beige jacket with black twist shoulder cord embellishments spirl passementerie corded buttons
Front Image
Jackets
White
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Ivory quilted silk satin sleeveless two-panel open front vest
Sleeveless
Front Image
Skirts
Black
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black marii pleated skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
Blue
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Navy marii pleated skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Black
Brown
Woven
Wool
Woven wool monochrome black brown tan diamond damask motif baroque swirls hand-stitched sequin overlay
Front Image
Skirts
Couture
Blue
Silk
Quilted
Navy blue quilted silk skirt
Front Image
Tunics
Orange
Silk
Tangerine silk Tibetan style crossover blouse with matching fabric buttons
Front Image
Blouses
Black
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black marii pleated jewel neck sleeveless plisse top
Front Image
Skirts
Brown
Silk
Tussah beige silk knee length skirt
Front Image
Blouses
Silver
Green
Silk
China silk light grey with apple green lining kimono sleeves piping detail along waist
Front Image
Blouses
Blue
Silk
Royal blue silk Tibetan style crossover side-button closure blouse
Front Image
Skirts
White
Linen
Cream linen skirt with side fan pleats
Front Image
Jackets
Black
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Black quilted silk collarless zip front and clasp jacket
Long
Front Image
Jackets
Silver
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Silver grey quilted silk satin collarless open front jacket with front pockets
Long
Front Image
Jackets
White
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Champagne ivory quilted silk satin collarless open front jacket
Long
Front Image
Jackets
White
Black
Blue
Silk
Satin
Quilted
Champagne ivory with hand-painted black and teal circular designs quilted silk satin collarless jacket with black braided silk shoulder cord embellishment
Long
Front Image
Pants
Red
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Raspberry marii pleated pant
Front Image
Pants
White
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Ivory marii pleated pant
Front Image
Skirts
Black
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black marii pleated long column skirt
Front Image
Skirts
Black
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Black marii pleated long column skirt
Front Image
Dresses
Yellow
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Pale lemon yellow marii pleated gathered neck and large billow gathered sleeve
Three-Quarter
Photo coming soon
Skirts
White
Satin
Ivory stripped skirt pink, yellow, tan side zip high luster satin
Front Image
Dresses
Black
Gold
Black and gold metallic thread design pleated shoulder zipper at wrist back keyhole tie dress
Long
Front Image
Pants
Black
Black harem style pant with zippered cuffs at ankle
Front Image
Tunics
Orange
Silk
Orange silk tunic with hand painted circular design snap cross front wide sleeve
Front Image
Skirts
Blue
White
Silk
Blue and ivory swirl silk gathered drop hem skirt
Front Image
Kaftans
Yellow
Yellow kaftan with hand painted circular designs asymmetrical sleeves tack drape arm slot tailored billowy sleeve gathered at wrist
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Green
Orange
Linen
Green linen Indonesian print orange flower with drop waist dress
Scoop
Front Image
Dresses
Green
Blue
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Teal blue marii pleated set separate sleeveless scoop neck top and matching skirt
Scoop
Sleeveless
Front Image
Dresses
Green
Charmeuse Marii pleat
Charmeuse
Moss green marii pleated scoop neck cocktail dress with knoted rope tie belt
Scoop
Front Image
Jackets
Multicolored silver blue grey red tan jacket with gold piping mesh bead sequin all over embellishment
Front Image
Jackets
White
Silk
Satin
Ivory horizontally quilted silk satin long sleeve round neck grey spiral embroidered cord center hook front longline jacket with corded trim
Front Image
Jackets
Couture
White
Silk
Satin
Ecru white stitched plissé pleat silk satin with ivory sequin, silver and gold metalized cording and pearlescent bead trim three-quarter sleeve round neck two hook fit-and-flare hip length jacket
Front Image
Coats
Couture
Black
White
Fur
Black, grey and white striped chinchilla fur long raglan sleeve modified shawl lapel hook front on seam pocket swing style coat
Front Image
Dresses
6
Green
Nieman Marcus
Satin
Teal green heat set poly satin plissé gold wrapped cord cuff half puff sleeve V-neck back zip ruffle edge dropped waist lettuce hem midi dress
V Neck
Elbow
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Brown
White
Saks Fifth Ave
Silk
Organza
Satin
Beige brown with white and gunmetal beaded stripe embroidered silk organza zip cuff long sleeve scoop neck back zip curlicue and fringe multi color bead scalloped waist heat set poly satin plissé lettuce hem gown
Scoop
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Purple
Knit
Mauve purple herringbone viscose blend knit long raglan sleeve scoop neck tiered single ruffle lettuce hem maxi column dress
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
2
Purple
White
Saks Fifth Ave
Satin
Lavender purple and buttercream ivory ruffle edge color blocked heat set poly satin plissé long puff sleeve scoop neck tie back drop waist lettuce hem maxi dress
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
Green
Silver
Nylon
Mesh
Kelly green, silver and yellow bead, sequin and crystal stylized floral embroidered nylon mesh strapless straight neckline back zip shades of green paisley printed silk organza column maxi dress
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
8
Black
Silver
Silk
Organza
Black with silver grid, floral sequin embroidered silk organza zip cuff long sleeve beaded floral embroidered bateau neck back zip dropped waist midi column dress
Scoop
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
4
Blue
Satin
Turquoise blue heat set poly satin plissé lettuce cuff long sleeve puff shoulder scoop neck back zip gathered waist layered organza A-line full length gown
Scoop
Long
Front Image
Dresses
Couture
16
Blue
Gold
Red
Nieman Marcus
Satin
Royal blue heat set poly satin plissé with gold, red and champagne beige fleur-de-lis embroidery with yellow crystal and multicolor sequin zip cuff three-quarter sleeve boat neck back zip mitered waist lettuce hem full length gown
Boat
Three-Quarter
Front Image